Many months ago, we cooked up a plan with our dear friends Sue and Jeanne to go to Alaska to try to see the Northern Lights. http://www.gi.alaska.edu/AuroraForecast After a few years of minimal sun spot activity, which in turn affects the aurora, 2011/12 was projected to be a really big year. March would have been the best but we have a wedding to help tend to in March so that was out!
Somehow Thanksgiving seemed possible. The idea of leaving home 36 hours after arriving home after 3 months on the road...well denial isn't just a river in Egypt. So off we went.
The week we were in Borrego Springs, it was -40 F in Fairbanks. When we landed here it was a balmy -27. I thought that being a Buffalonian who later lived in Wisconsin would have prepared me. Not so. It has not gotten above -6 the whole time we've been here.
The day starts by layering: One or 2 pairs of long underwear depending on the day's activities, a pair of pants or snow pants, a sweater, a fleece top, a vest and a jacket, two pairs of socks, two pairs of gloves, a scarf or balaclava, and a hat, and hood for later.
We head over to the main lodge http://www.atasteofalaska.com/ for a huge homemade breakfast, hang around talking to Cory (age 26) who has taken over the business. His grandparents and parents have homesteaded here for many years. They are true life-long Alaskans. Mom and Dad have gold mined. Dad still does and then restores the land and establishes new wetlands. Moose live in the woods below the meadow. Cooper the
German Shepard visits gurests every day for the dog treats stored on the counter. Debbie, Cody's mom, shows us her quilting room and projects in process. Cody's dad Dave rants about the US government and regulations....he's not afraid to state his opinion. Talking with Dave makes me understand how Sara Palin was elected govenor. I teased him about wearing a tinfoil hat to protect him from the microwaves he worries are being emitted from the cell tower near by. (Can't hurt, might help).
After the day's activites we return to our lodge for dinner (peeling off all but 1 layer) and a game of cards or BananaGram. Then on 2 nights we set out to see the aurora - the first of which was covered in the last blog. Last night they were even more spectacular than the first and we managed to not lock ourselves out of the car. (Debbie did threaten to notify Trooper Rick that we were on the road again so he could keep an eye out for us.
Alaska is a magical and wondrous land. I loved the southeast when I visited years ago and Fairbanks is right up there on my list of "must returns."
Home tomorrow...for now.
LC posted at Fairbanks
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Sunday, November 27, 2011
Of course There's a Story........
Once upon a time.............
The four of us headed north from California to Fairbanks, Alaska, with hopes and prayers to experience the Aurora Borealis. The forecast from the Geophysical Institute was good, showing a wide band of activity as far south as Anchorage. http://www.gi.alaska.edu/AuroraForecast
Sue, Leslie and Renee drove from the lodge on Saturday evening, gassed up the Expedition, and drove north, as recommended to us. (Jeanne stayed back at the lodge, to watch the lights from her deck there.) We were prepared for the 25 mile drive. We were confident that at Wickersham Dome, at 3000 feet, we'd have our 'holy moments' of Northern Lights, a spiritual experience about which we would tell our grandchildren.
Seven miles north of Fairbanks, suddenly there were a state trooper's lights blazing at us, pulling us over.
You had not dimmed your high beams, Officer Roberts explained.
Oh, sorry, we realized why you were pulling us over the moment you put your lights on.
Where are you ladies headed?
We're headed north to Wickersham Dome to see the Aurora.
Are you? Why are you driving all the way there? They're right here. Look up.
Unbelievable. There were waves of green shimmering lights all over the sky. Everywhere.
Right there, and there, and there, pointed out Ranger Roberts. We got some photos.
Amazed and laughing and exclaiming two piled out of the car, while he checked our IDs. Then he recommended we drive up a couple of miles, pull over in any driveway off the road, and watch the lights right here.
Off we went. Pulled over at Mile 10. Jumped out.
In all the commotion and excitement, in trying to get clothes out and get dressed properly, and get the camera, the car doors and hatchback became locked.
With the car running. With us outside the car.
24 degrees below zero.
Leslie had no coat on. I had only liner gloves, not thick ones. Sue had all appropriate clothing on, except they 'sucked' to quote her, and her fingers and toes had been numb in the car, before we were locked out..
Dark cold night, bright, shimmering aurora all over the sky.
Quick assessment: This would be a 911 moment, Sue said.
One of us had a cell phone. (That would be Renee)
Ten minutes of explanation to the 911 operator that this was a real emergency, and her sorting out what we really needed, which was for the officer to come back so we could sit in his car, till she could send a tow company to open the car door.
OK, The officer's on his way, she said. Which tow truck company would you like?
Just send one, any one, I said.
No, no, you have to choose. I'll start reading them to you.
Seriously? Do you know I can hardly make my lips move to talk to you?
No, I have to read them.
She read the first name. That one, I said. That one!
She patches me over to George. What do you need, ma'am?
For you to save our lives by opening our locked car.....now......
Ok, we can be there in 30 minutes. Great, I say.
I don't tell Leslie or Sue it will be 30 minutes. Why worry them?
The next ten minutes out there were seriously the longest ten minutes of my life. Breath-taking lights and breath-taking cold and acute awareness of our vulnerability.
We laughed and cursed, ran around, stamped feet, took photos, cursed more, Sue gave her lap blanket so Leslie could wrap up.
Ranger Rick arrived. Opened his police car's back door and said get in. He had an Air Force fellow riding along, who wants to be a trooper.
We were giddy with relief, probably seemed like we were drunk, actually, we were so goofy. We assured him we hadn't been drinking.
Have you ever sat in the back seat of a police car? They are really, really uncomfortable, hard metal, wheel well in the center to straddle. I realize they're not made for a passenger's comfort, after all.
He talked on the radio about bad guys, let us photograph his car from the bad guy seat.
Then George and Randy arrived! And we attempted to get out of the trooper's car. Where's the door handle? Sue exclaimed. Duh...............Sue, with no previous experience in rear seats in police cars, learned quickly, of course, 'no handles' keep the bad guys in!
George and Randy had the car open in a minute.
Did you try using the key pad, they asked? No, George, first of all, never had a car with a keypad. Second, the rental company didn't give us the number. How much for your work?
65 dollars, Ma'am. Done, I said, peeling off an unknown number of bills in the dark with icy fingers!
He looked at the bills and seemed quite happy. I don't actually know what we paid them.
It doesn't matter.
Into the warm car, and finally taking the first deep breath in 30 minutes.
Should we head home now?
Hell, No! After all this drama? Keep driving north, please! After all this, we are now official "Aurora Chasers". Drive on!
We viewed lights at two others turn-outs, and finally drove home about 12:30 am.
The lights were still overhead, and it was hard to settle down, but finally by 2am, we were done in and tucked in.
Thank you, God and Goddess, Universe, Fate, Ranger Rick , George and Randy, for our safety and the story and our very own Christmas season light show!
RJ and LC
The four of us headed north from California to Fairbanks, Alaska, with hopes and prayers to experience the Aurora Borealis. The forecast from the Geophysical Institute was good, showing a wide band of activity as far south as Anchorage. http://www.gi.alaska.edu/AuroraForecast
Sue, Leslie and Renee drove from the lodge on Saturday evening, gassed up the Expedition, and drove north, as recommended to us. (Jeanne stayed back at the lodge, to watch the lights from her deck there.) We were prepared for the 25 mile drive. We were confident that at Wickersham Dome, at 3000 feet, we'd have our 'holy moments' of Northern Lights, a spiritual experience about which we would tell our grandchildren.
Seven miles north of Fairbanks, suddenly there were a state trooper's lights blazing at us, pulling us over.
You had not dimmed your high beams, Officer Roberts explained.
Oh, sorry, we realized why you were pulling us over the moment you put your lights on.
Where are you ladies headed?
We're headed north to Wickersham Dome to see the Aurora.
Are you? Why are you driving all the way there? They're right here. Look up.
Unbelievable. There were waves of green shimmering lights all over the sky. Everywhere.
Amazed and laughing and exclaiming two piled out of the car, while he checked our IDs. Then he recommended we drive up a couple of miles, pull over in any driveway off the road, and watch the lights right here.
Off we went. Pulled over at Mile 10. Jumped out.
In all the commotion and excitement, in trying to get clothes out and get dressed properly, and get the camera, the car doors and hatchback became locked.
With the car running. With us outside the car.
Leslie had no coat on. I had only liner gloves, not thick ones. Sue had all appropriate clothing on, except they 'sucked' to quote her, and her fingers and toes had been numb in the car, before we were locked out..
Dark cold night, bright, shimmering aurora all over the sky.
Quick assessment: This would be a 911 moment, Sue said.
One of us had a cell phone. (That would be Renee)
Ten minutes of explanation to the 911 operator that this was a real emergency, and her sorting out what we really needed, which was for the officer to come back so we could sit in his car, till she could send a tow company to open the car door.
OK, The officer's on his way, she said. Which tow truck company would you like?
Just send one, any one, I said.
No, no, you have to choose. I'll start reading them to you.
Seriously? Do you know I can hardly make my lips move to talk to you?
No, I have to read them.
She read the first name. That one, I said. That one!
She patches me over to George. What do you need, ma'am?
For you to save our lives by opening our locked car.....now......
Ok, we can be there in 30 minutes. Great, I say.
I don't tell Leslie or Sue it will be 30 minutes. Why worry them?
The next ten minutes out there were seriously the longest ten minutes of my life. Breath-taking lights and breath-taking cold and acute awareness of our vulnerability.
We laughed and cursed, ran around, stamped feet, took photos, cursed more, Sue gave her lap blanket so Leslie could wrap up.
Ranger Rick arrived. Opened his police car's back door and said get in. He had an Air Force fellow riding along, who wants to be a trooper.
We were giddy with relief, probably seemed like we were drunk, actually, we were so goofy. We assured him we hadn't been drinking.
Have you ever sat in the back seat of a police car? They are really, really uncomfortable, hard metal, wheel well in the center to straddle. I realize they're not made for a passenger's comfort, after all.
He talked on the radio about bad guys, let us photograph his car from the bad guy seat.
Then George and Randy arrived! And we attempted to get out of the trooper's car. Where's the door handle? Sue exclaimed. Duh...............Sue, with no previous experience in rear seats in police cars, learned quickly, of course, 'no handles' keep the bad guys in!
George and Randy had the car open in a minute.
Did you try using the key pad, they asked? No, George, first of all, never had a car with a keypad. Second, the rental company didn't give us the number. How much for your work?
65 dollars, Ma'am. Done, I said, peeling off an unknown number of bills in the dark with icy fingers!
He looked at the bills and seemed quite happy. I don't actually know what we paid them.
It doesn't matter.
The cast of characters!
Into the warm car, and finally taking the first deep breath in 30 minutes.
Should we head home now?
Hell, No! After all this drama? Keep driving north, please! After all this, we are now official "Aurora Chasers". Drive on!
We viewed lights at two others turn-outs, and finally drove home about 12:30 am.
The Big Dipper and the Aurora Borealis
The lights were still overhead, and it was hard to settle down, but finally by 2am, we were done in and tucked in.
Thank you, God and Goddess, Universe, Fate, Ranger Rick , George and Randy, for our safety and the story and our very own Christmas season light show!
RJ and LC
Bucket List: Aurora Borealis. Check!
11pm. Minus 24 degrees. North of Fairbanks, Alaska, about 17 miles.
Thank you.
Saturday, November 26, 2011
Up on the rooftop, reindeer paws..........
These are reindeer paws. More later.
Our day began with an actual sunrise! We had assumed there was no sun at all in November/December, but we were wrong. The day retains a twilight sort of light, as the sun passes low in the sky.
There are a number of art displays and sculptures at The Taste of Alaska Lodge, where we are staying. It has given me ideas for San Jose (sorry, Leslie!)
The morning light made our cabin and the main house glow this morning.
And drew us out to play!
You know I have a thing about these reflection photos.
Kory, the lodge owner, has a dog, Cooper, who thinks we are pretty OK humans, and hangs with us.
We headed out at noon for our Running with Reindeer adventure, down Murphy Dome Road, northeast of Fairbanks.
Jane, the owner of the business, introduced us to the reindeer family.
If you can enlarge this photo of Olive, you will see the reflection of us humans in her eye.
The reindeer ran. the humans walked.
And all too soon, after cookies and tea in Jane and her family's living room, it was sunset, 3:30pm, and time for us to head back to the lodge.
The Aurora Borealis forecast is promising for tonight, so at 10pm, we're driving to Wickersham Dome, 30 miles north of here on the Elliot Highway. Wish us luck!
RJ
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Transitions
Yesterday when we arrived at home, our neighbors and friends greeted us. It was quite surreal to see the full fall colors as we left in the summer of September. Our yard was different, yet the same. The glads we planted were blooming and that damn Bermuda grass that I had carefully dug out ot that bed is back. Grrrrr.
As I entered the house there was our "stuff" but also Brian and Marlena's as they are in transition, too. The house looked beautiful; they had taken such good care of it. The same but different.
Our friend and contractor Park stopped by on his way to talk with one of our neighbors. He is sporting a beard and Connor, his son, has grown an inch or two. We call Park our husband (with his real wife's full knowledge) as he spent so much time with us during the kitchen remodel a couple of years ago. It was good to see our husband again. We laughed and told a couple of inappropriate jokes just out of the hearing of Connor- who laughed and said "I didn't hear a thing!"
Going to bed was so wonderful. And so strange. A cat in the bed instead of Anna.
Renee is checking Fairbanks weather (a warming trend it is zero not -24) and the Aurora Borealis prediction for today (a quiet period). I am on my way to buy a small turkey so we can eat our Thanksgiving dinner as sandwiches on the plane.
So we are home but not quite home...it is the same yet different.
In transition.....Leslie
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
New Mexico Next
The miles west took us next to Silver city, New Mexico, for a family evening and fine breakfast with Allee and Ken Barr. For the uninitiated, I am Allee's 'wicked stepmother'. Which is a joke. Really. Isn't it , Allee?
What a treat to see her and husband Ken, their dog Miel, to share conversation, food, and time together. Never enough time, but we wouldn't have missed the hours together.
Miss you, Allee, miss you, Ken!
But, on to Arizona Highways............
To the Air Force Museum in Tucson, Arizona. Fabulous museum. If you're in Tucson, don't miss it.
And to a lovely sunset in Arizona somewhere in the worst mobile home/trailer park of our entire trip.
We can't remember the city. I won't even tell you the name of the park. South of Phoenix, we think. Even Anna was upset.
So it was not hard to be out of town and Arizona at the crack of dawn, heading for our home state of
CALIFORNIA.
Yay, California, here we come............
We have been able to do all these posts here in the cabin in Fairbanks, as it was dark at 4pm, dinner was 5pm, and there's still time for a nap now, at 8:30 pm, before going out to, please, Goddess,may we see the Aurora tonight. Heading out at 10. Have committed to each other, the four of us, to stay out ( in the car, on the mt top) till 2. We are, choke, gasp, driving a Ford Expedition. It seems OK here though.
Please don't hold it against us.
You will, of course, be notified of the night sky activity either way. The forecast on the Geophysical Institute web site is hopeful. As are we.
RJ
Rock Art and Desert Ponds
A very short hikes takes you to amazing rock art.....
A female ceremonial mask
And one of the Hueco tanks, just a paradise of lush growth, even in the severe drought in which Texas is suffering.
Just about the most amazing bug I have ever seen. Leslie has taken many of the photos we post, but this one I am pronouncing "Special Artistic and Scientific Merit Award". She took this fabulous photo on her hike to the rock art.
And another javelina peeking out to check us out.
Morteros (the grinding rocks)
This rock art just whetted our appetites for more study and travel (you"re not surprised, are you?)
Westward bound.........
RJ
Around the Bend, and North to Hueco Tanks
Big Bend. 250 miles of the International Border with Mexico. 1250 square miles, which is 60% of the size of Rhode Island. 9000 yr. old artifacts. The largest protected section of the Chihuahuan Desert in the U.S. It has contrasts of weather from freezing to 118 degrees, with ground temperatures in the summer that have been recorded to 180 degrees. 
We had to leave. the rest of the miles taking us home to California were calling
Many a story to be told in these parts...........
Including the art work in Terlingua, Texas...........
Our next evening's camp took us to Hueco Tanks State Park, just east of El Paso.
"Hueco" means 'hollow', and it describes the rock basins which hold water all year long, and have tiny, translucent fresh-water shrimp. Foxes, bobcats, falcons,golden eagles, lizards, and others are attracted to them. In the summer's blistering heat, the Native Peoples went up to this area (4500-4800 ft. elevation) into the naturally air-conditioned caves.
The rock paintings, among them more than 200 masks, are thousands of years old. Through the centuries, new people have painted, sometimes over the old paintings. We saw 'paintings', which we tend to call 'graffiti' up into the 1980's, painted over thousand yr old ones. The park is now protected, only by reservation can you stay. You must attend an orientation with a ranger, sign in, report to them when you're going out to see the art, or to climb (a haven for rock climbers!)
Centuries of rock art. Who's to say, eh?
As the ranger said, we humans like to leave our mark.
She wasn't excusing defacing art milleniums old, just saying it's who we are, it seems.
More rock art photos in the next post...................RJ
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